Copa de Oro

With an early start in Garzón, Huila as foggy clouds burned off the surrounding mountain valleys, it was time to navigate a 3 day cupping marathon for Osito’s Copa de Oro to select 15 finalists and a grand champion. Admiring the competition from afar for years, this was our first opportunity to join as an international juror.

As the industry continues to saturate with flashes in the pan, competitions that inarguably widen the gulf between the floor and ceiling of producer success, and the endless pursuit of tomorrow’s trend, few entities provide the requisite transparency demonstrating where intentions truly lie. Osito’s Copa de Oro exists to celebrate the beautiful work of Southern Huila producers who deliver to Osito’s purchasing points, deepening relationships and trust in the process of committing to specialty. 

Running this gauntlet of a cupping marathon with a panel of esteemed cuppers ultimately establishes the top 15 finalists from an original pool of over 250 lot submissions of which 3 distinct Osito buying regions are represented by the top 5 scoring coffees: the South (largely represented by San Agustín & Palestina), the Central (dominated by Suaza & Garzón), and the West (this year swept by La Plata). Unsurprisingly, table after table was loaded with Pink Bourbon and Geisha, while a handful of other desirable varieties provided splashes of color from Ají to Sudan Rume. 

In contrast to auction based competitions, the Copa de Oro provides fixed cost premiums per carga of parchment, providing a consistent, replicable system for continued producer investment and buy-in. The farmgate prices that come with these awards are indisputably transformative for producers and can quite literally put their name on the map for roasters across the world, providing a conduit to forming long-term buying relationships that with care & intention endure the test of time. 

Over the course of 3 days, I had narrowed my focus on 4 samples that presented everything I look for in coffee that inspires me: piercing acidity punctuated with juicy fruit, exquisite harmony of florality & sweetness, and incredible structure & complexity. Samples being entirely blind of course, the only criteria that carry weight in these moments are the full scope of sensory experience: dry fragrance, wet aroma, and taste. I do not hesitate in saying this was amongst the most beautiful tables I have ever cupped, perhaps even the best. Upon completion of the final table presenting the 15 finalists, it was time to tabulate the 3 day aggregate scores in preparation for the awards ceremony the following day.  

It’s hard to capture the feeling of a long day filled with a massive Colombian asada, a fútbol tournament, brewing filter coffee for farmers that they themselves produced, and a beautiful awards ceremony paired with live San Juanero music, but suffice it to say there is no better way to pass time than with wonderful people. Heading into the celebration, I knew I would be crossing paths with a handful of our existing producer relationships, namely Edinson Elías Muñoz of Finca Pensilvania as well as Alirio Muñoz Ortega and his wife Anayibe. Once again, nothing replaces time well spent together.

After getting trounced by Edinson’s team in the fútbol tournament who went on to win the whole thing, the awards ceremony commenced, and I couldn’t wait for the top 15 reveal. As the list was rattled off in no particular order, Edinson was called up to the stage as part of the 15, and I thought “here we go.” 

“5th place south region... 4th place south region... 3rd place south region and 6th place overall with his washed Sudan Rume lot. Edinson Elías Muñoz!” What a rush to share this moment and celebrate with a familiar family who produces incredible coffee. Thus far, we have had the pleasure of purchasing Geisha, Wush Wush, and Caturra from Finca Pensilvania, but this award winning lot was absolutely going to have to fill out that roster.

An exotic variety genetically regarded as one of the purest representations of Coffea Arabica, tracing its lineage directly to its wild ancestors in the wild coffee forests of East Africa, Sudan Rume presents incredible clarity, complexity, acidity, all rounded out with a fruit gummy-like mouthfeel. Unsurprisingly, Edinson’s coffee was in my blind top 4. 

Let’s rewind for a moment because when the dust had settled after the announcement of all 15 finalists, Francy Burbano was the only woman producer to place in the top 15 slots with her 5th place finish in the South region with her washed Pink Bourbon. Once again, this coffee was indisputably in my blind top 4. 

It should come as no surprise that women are underrepresented along every step of the supply chain in the coffee industry. Data suggests that women provide 70% of the global labor related to coffee but only represent 20% of ownership, a problematic reality to say the least. Quality aside with Francy’s Pink Bourbon, I knew I had to do what I could to bring this coffee to Madcap’s menu.

These moments are more than just the coffee. They represent the absolute necessity to commit to being better stewards of this industry, particularly in shifting our focus at the end of the supply chain more wholeheartedly towards a producer-focused mentality. As the cost of production continues to soar, regardless of what the C market does, we must decouple ourselves from the mentality that coffee pricing undulates according to market conditions. Labor, transport, input costs, and climate change will continue to move the needle in unfavorable directions                  
if we don’t continue to hold consuming markets accountable for what coffee must truly cost. 

For now, we will celebrate 2 absolutely stunning coffees from 2 incredible producers, appreciating the tremendous amount of work that goes into presenting lots of this caliber. Edinson Muñoz Sudan Rume and Francy Burbano Pink Bourbon coming soon.

Pictured: Casey Routledge, Head of Coffee Operations at Madcap Coffee, with producers Edinson Elías Muñoz and Francy Burbano in Huila, Colombia.